He threaded his Toyota through the mayhem of Cairo’s streets, boulevards and highways, never stopping, because stopping is a cardinal sin. We circled immense roundabouts, skirted scores of every kind travel conveyance known to man or woman — scooters, tuc-tucs, leviathan tour buses, great clusters of microbuses the size of Volkswagen vans, every one of them jammed to the teeth with humans, so crammed that you couldn’t put a piece of paper between the people inside.